Triumph in Paris
There are more than 200 stone steps in a narrow curving staircase leading up to the top of the Arc de Triomphe, France ’s most famous veterans memorial. We ask the ticket-seller if there is an elevator and he says it’s reserved for the handicapped. At that moment, I shamelessly wish I could grab a crutch and a sling and ride the secret elevator. I’m beat.
It’s our last full day in Paris , and my boots tell the story of our trip. I polished them before leaving Brussels and now they are scuffed and worn by the miles of cobblestones and sidewalks we covered on foot, tracing the steps of modern Parisians and ancient Europeans, peasants and kings, revolutionaries and leaders, soldiers and politicians, ordinary men, women, and children.
No rest for the weary tourist, and no excuses for the over-40 dumpling-thighed woman who would love to take the elevator. With the kids and E-Man ahead of me, I begin plowing up the steps. I hate spiral staircases. While my fear of heights isn’t acute, a turning staircase can stir anxieties and make me feel light-headed. To make matters worse, I’d taken my heart meds about an hour before, and they slow my heart rate and drop my blood pressure, so my cardiovascular system was fighting me every step of the way.
My brain was telling my heart to pump harder and the pills were telling it not to. My lungs complained that they were doing their best to up the oxygen intake but would the heart and brain please agree to get the blood moving? Meanwhile, I was trying to watch my step without looking down through the dizzying spiral formed by the stairs I’d already ascended. Ugh. It was a walk to remember—for all the wrong reasons. As soon as I hit the top, I plopped on a bench, feeling absolutely geriatric and remembering the good old days when I was a distance runner.
I briefly checked out the exhibit in the museum honoring Napoleon and his soldiers, and then trudged up still more steps to see the view from the overlook on top. The Arc de Triomphe is in the middle of Paris ’ most famous traffic circle and the city radiates out from it in a star shape formed by broad, tree-lined boulevards. Look down into the traffic circle and you’ll see what alternately looks like a paved lot full of irregularly parked cars or a Shriner’s parade of circus vehicles zipping in and out.
The skyline is gorgeous, the city’s buildings relatively uniform in height so the vision of Paris extends almost to the horizon. The trees along the boulevards still have their leaves, golden and green. In the distance, Sacre Coeur sits like royalty on a throne on a small mount on the outskirts of the city. The Eiffel Tower rises gracefully—all curves and grandeur against the pearl gray sky. I’m forced to admit the view was worth the hike up. While the Eiffel Tower ’s elevator takes the rider’s head into the clouds, the Arc de Triomphe’s staircases put Paris at your feet.
Once downstairs, we decide to walk along the Champs-Elysees, Paris ’ most famous avenue. I have done very little shopping in Paris —buying only postcards for my scrapbook, a calendar, some notecards, and artsy refrigerator magnets. The big names in fashion are here—Christian Dior, Dolce and Gabbana, Armani, Lous Vuitton, Roberto Cavalli, Gucci, Prada . I peer in one window at the $400 jeans and know I’m not crossing the threshold of any of those shops. The sidewalks are wide and crowded, and the entire city looks like it’s dressed for a funeral—or a theatre party. Head to toe black. I feel like a renegade in my red jacket. I trust I won’t be hunted down by the fashion police--a scarlet woman!
E says, “Hey, isn’t that the store you wanted to go to up ahead?” And sure enough—there’s the Sephora sign, the one I’d talked about visiting in advance of the trip but had resolved to resist. I’m about to tell E I don’t need to go in there when E-Grrrl starts jumping up and down. “Look! Sephora! The most famous makeup store in the world!” Good lord, that Grrrl is WAY too much like her mother.
So for E-Grrrl’s sake, we decide to go in (ha, ha). E and A agree to meet us back at the store in 45 minutes, and then E-Grrrl and I step into “the world’s most famous makeup store.” It’s huge, and it has more gay men per square foot than any place I’ve ever been.
E-Grrrl notices right away and says “Mama! Why are all these BOYS working in a makeup store?” I don’t say anything, and then she adds slyly: “Ha! I know why! They’re here to meet GIRLS. This is a good place to work if you want to get a girlfriend!” Hmmmm. I think to myself, “Honey, you’re a keen observer and a quick thinker but you’re just a little off track on this one.” I save the conversation about gay men and beauty for another day. I’m here for the sights.
I can barely take five steps without being Mama-ed by E-Grrrl. She is so excited! She has her hands in the makeup testers and in minutes her cheeks are sparkling and opalescent. “Don’t put that stuff on your face!” I tell her but she’s caught up in a big beauty moment, ready to try all the scents next.
Things are expensive. Even discount brands like Maybelline are high-priced by American drugstore standards. There’s nothing under $10. The better-quality and designer cosmetics are three to four times the price of the Maybelline. I pick up a big tin of Cargo lip gloss that I’ve admired online and spend the rest of my time comparing the other makeup lines, taking mental notes for future purchases.
Meanwhile, the little E-Grrrl has grabbed a basket and is loading it up in the Sephora Girl’s section with items for herself and her best gal pal in the States, Hannah. I check the basket to make sure there’s nothing inappropriate in it: some hairbrushes, soap, clear lip gloss and nail polish, and a travel bag. Good Grrrl. When we check out, her purchases total twice as much as mine and her whole face is sparkly! Her cheeks look a little green, like some eye shadow landed where the blush should be. It makes me laugh—she looks like a sprite.
There’s a Gap farther down the street. I haven’t been in one in at least 10 years. I decide to take a quick stroll through, and I buy a crushable angora hat with a brim. I flash back to a photo my mom took of me when I was about four. I was wearing a white angora beret and a fur collar and holding a book, grinning broadly for the camera. I have ALWAYS loved hats.
I have the clerk cut the tags off, and I pop it onto my head for the walk back to our apartment. I dip a finger in my new lip gloss and slick it on. Tomorrow we head back to Brussels , but for today I can pretend I’m at home in Paris .
© 2005 Veronica McCabe Deschambault. All rights reserved.
December 5, 2005