The wobbly bits--reflections on scenery, driving and the English experience
If Belgium is built of brick, Britain is built of stone. Just as nearly every manmade structure in Belgium is a shade of red, every thing in Britain appears to be a shade of gray or tan. The area we visited is renowned for its cream colored limestone and classic architecture and its featured in new as well as old buildings.
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Jane Austen lived in Bath for several years and recent movies based on her novels were filmed here. We saw some some of the homes and manors used in the BBC production of Pride and Prejudice. We also an Elizabethan manor house whose history inspired Charles Dickens to write Bleak House. We caught a glimpse of Prince Charles’ estate, High Grove. There’s a Jane Austen museum in Bath, but we didn’t visit.
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I loved the wide open skies and rolling plains of the English countryside near Bath and in the Cotswolds. On sunny days the shadows of clouds scuttling over hills and dales animated the landscape. On cloudy days I appreciated the stark beauty of craggy limbed trees against the pearl gray sky. Everywhere we turned, the deep green hills were dotted with sheep. I told E-Man that it was only natural a cold, damp country like England would be known for wool production. Later, my conjectures were confirmed by a guide, who told us the wool industry was launched by the Romans when they occupied Britain. Military men hated to posted to the chilly hinterlands of the Empire and began cultivating sheep to meet their own needs for warm clothing.
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The English seem to be unfailingly polite. Not only were they courteous in their personal interactions, but even their traffic signs, posts, and warnings had a pleasant tone. They are not as quiet and reserved as Belgians. Unfortunately, the loud car stereos that are prevalent in America are also popular in the UK. (Kudos to the Belgians for not blasting their bass notes into the stratosphere.)
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The E-Man bravely embraced the “backwards” UK traffic pattern and drove confidently on the left side of the road and barreled around traffic circles in a clockwise direction with the savoir faire of a native. The first day as a passenger in the car, I was skittish and sometimes had to close my eyes because all my reflexes revolted against E driving on the left. However, I was surprised how quickly I got used to it and was able to relax and enjoy the scenery. E did a fabulous job of driving and navigating.
Even after living in Belgium for more than a year, I’m uncomfortable in the car, as a driver or a passenger. Belgian law gives priority to cars entering roads from the right so as you’re driving along cars come shooting out of perpendicular roads right in front of you. Except at certain intersections, they are not required to stop, yield, or even slow down. I will never get used to having vehicles popping out of side streets at high rates of speed. I’m forever terrified by anything moving in my peripheral vision—and that includes the abundance of pedestrians and cyclists who are EVERYWHERE.
E and I both admired how well marked roads were in the area of England we were in. Lots of signs, well placed, and best of all, lots of pavement markings indicating which lane to stay in to catch a particular highway. Yes the roads meander and are seldom straight and there are loads of traffic circles, but it’s much harder to get lost than in America or in Belgium. There seemed to be less aggressive driving and road rage. We’re forever amazed that the otherwise quiet and self-contained Belgians can get so bent out of shape when they get behind the wheel of a car (not that Americans are calm behind the wheel--they're driven in every sense of the word!). One thing I will say for Belgian drivers, as compared to U.S. drivers, is that they nearly ALWAYS use their turn signals. Of course, this is almost comical when they’re signaling to pass you on the right by DRIVING ON THE SIDEWALK! Or edging around and in front of you while you are in a marked turn lane preparing to turn left. Ah yes, I love the way Belgians seize the day by creating lanes and right-of-way rules at will. Who says they’re not a dynamic and creative people? ; )
April 21, 2006
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