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« Back when I was a PR associate..... | Main | Letters to the World »
Thursday
Jun222006

Service please!

One of the adjustments we faced in moving to Brussels has been the nature of our restaurant service. The typical American restaurant experience focuses on speed and customer service, not just food. An American server will introduce themselves, smile a lot, make small talk, describe the specials, answer questions and take your drink order within 5 minutes of you taking a seat.

His or her job is to anticipate your needs, refilling your drink glass regularly or topping your coffee mug, and checking back with at regular intervals to let you know the status of your order, or if it has already been delivered, to ascertain that everything is satisfactory and to clear empty plates from the table.

A good American server is friendly, personable, and strikes just the right balance between being available to the customer but not intrusive. Serving in the U.S. is an art form and the national chain restaurants provide their staff with extensive training not just in how to complete their tasks but how to set a proper tone with the customer and anticipate his or her needs. Local restaurants develop their own personalities. Dependent mostly on tips for their income, a smart server works hard to make your meal as enjoyable as possible and to connect with the diner.

In Belgium, dining out is an entirely different experience. Belgians, who are always in a hurry when they’re in the car, are in no rush when they enter a restaurant. Your server will wander over to deliver menus whenever it’s convenient, will tell you about the daily specials only if asked, will not offer refills on your drinks unless summoned to the table and will charge for every drop of coffee or cola that splashes into your mug (no bottomless cups or glasses here). You won’t be interrupted, engaged in conversation or rushed to complete your meal, but the down side of this is that receiving and settling the check can take quite a lot of time.

I’ve read that Belgian wait staff keep their distance as a way to convey respect to the customer. Maybe so. Maybe not. Cynic that I am, think the real issue is that in America servers work for tips and here they do not. I think servers here see themselves as people who carry orders to the kitchen and food from the kitchen. End of story.

Until we went to England, the only taste we’ve had of American style service in Europe was at a Chinese restaurant in Zaventem where the proprietor waited on us herself and did so with great warmth and graciousness.

When we visited the U.K. recently, we once again tasted service with a smile. At restaurants and pubs, coffee and tea houses, our servers were friendly, thorough, and eager to top our glasses and offer extra gravy. Dining was a pleasure, whether we visited American-bred restaurants like TGIF in Bath or family-owned cafés in the Cotswolds, the staff was eager to please, happy to adjust the menu, solicitous to our children.

The whole experience left a sweet taste in our mouths. Belgium may be renowned for its cuisine, but the dining experiences we had in the UK make us eager to grab a ferry back over.

Copyright 2006 Veronica McCabe Deschambault. All rights reserved.

June 22, 2006

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Reader Comments (13)

The last time I was in England, about 5 years ago, the tide was just beginning to turn in terms of waitstaff service. About half of the places we ate at provided good, friendly service, and we tipped accordingly. The other half were staffed by kids who had a similar attitude to the one you have experienced in Belgium. I always figured it was the greater influx of American tourists equalling a chance to gain extra cash in tips if nice service is provided. Do you think if more Americans came to Belgium, there would be a similar result? (I'm not sure if many Americans travel there, and defer to you.)
June 22, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterMrs. Harridan
Do you think that part of it might have to do with the whole laid-back European mealtime vibe?

I think I'm happiest with a hybrid--American-style attentiveness up until right before the check is presented, and then European laid-backness in terms of not pushing me to leave before I've finished my dessert.
June 22, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterArabella
I don't think it's strictly a cultural thing--I think it's also a labor issue. Food prices listed on a menu include a gratuity. The only people that tip in Belgium are the Americans (maybe other expats do too, I'm not sure) because we're conditioned to tip.

It is nice to linger at the table when you're out with a group of friends and not feel pressured to vacate a table--ever. But many times we don't go out to eat because we simply don't have 2 hours to spend in the restaurant.
June 22, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterV-Grrrl
Japan is a non-tipping situation as well. Service ran from very attentive to close to negligent. However, there are no substitutions in Japan. Everything comes 'as is'.

We've found the service here in Monterey very inconsistent. It's either fabulous or horrible. Which is puzzling as it is a tourist town and there are lots of wealthy folks here who you'd think would insist on fine service. It tends to be the more reasonably priced joints that have the best service.
June 22, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterAnnie
Here it's all about speed, quantity and making money. I mean that's kind of what America is, right? Wal-Mart, being the epitome of that, has greeters, friendly staff, huge quantities of stuff and pricess that entice you to buy more. How would you characterize Belgium?
June 22, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterMignon
I've been to Bruge and Oestend. In restaurants all I got was a tomato and a piece of wet lettuce on a plate. No WATER!! In the UK..it's better service...SOMETIMES...but then.. still NO FREE WATER!
June 22, 2006 | Unregistered Commentermrsmogul
How would I characterize Belgium? Good question. Belgium doesn't have much of a national identity because of its history (it only became a country in the 19th century) and its internal language and cultural divisions between the Dutch- speaking Flemish and the French-speaking Wallonians. I read online that only 1 percent of marriages in Belgium are between members of those two groups. That shocked me.

My perception is that Belgium is stubborn in a (mostly) good sorta of way. It endures, it follows its own traditions even as it swims in immigrants and expats. It is a place, where everyone seems intent on minding their own business, but few seem interested in running a business. : )
June 23, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterV-Grrrl
I had no idea! I was in England about 20 years ago, but I guess with all of the pub crawling I didn't take the time to notice the restaurant service. I'd probably notice it now. Hope things get better.
June 23, 2006 | Unregistered Commenterwordgirl
It is like that in Holland too, but luckily we found a wonderful restaurant with more of a French feel. Real bread on the table, water in a carafe (you have to pay for it but still ...) Keep looking, you'll find somewhere that does have service and then you won't want to go anywhere else.
June 24, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterAsh
For the first couple of years after I moved here, I regularly went out to lunch so I could experience the quality and variety of restaurants in Brussels. And I will say that the quality of food was uniformly high--fresh, attractive, well-prepared.

The consistently slow service, though, ultimately became a big deterrent. Two to three hours for a lunch was a given. This could be tolerable on a slow day with an interesting lunch companion, but it's unacceptable on a normal day. And it's insufferable if you're dining with kids.

I've reached a point where I think twice before eating out in Belgium. Our kids hate most Belgian restaurants they've been to. I've spoken with a number of Belgians and found that most of them with kids also avoid eating out.

Whatever the motivation for the pace and attitude of restaurant service in Belgium, the lost is ultimately the restaurants'. I find it yet another example of the almost nihilistic attitude towards business in Belgium. There do appear to be so many guarantees and protections for a typical small business that actually making an effort to make money seems to be more than most business owners are willing to do.
June 27, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterCdpoint
As a Belgian living in the UK I might sample now and then a hint of US style service. Being greeted with fake smiles, constantly bothered with trying to get you to spend more money and your plate been taken away 1 second after your last bite. I hate it. I fear after taking over the US and the UK, total capitalism is now about to take away the last bit of genuineness on the continent too. Well done!
July 11, 2006 | Unregistered Commenternaat
Naat,

I loved getting your view on the different styles of restaurant service. So much depends on our culture and what we're used to. I hate having the table cluttered with dirty dishes and always want them removed promptly.I can see, however, where having your dish swept away from the table after your last bite would make you feel rushed and less than welcome. And your point on "genuineness" vs. "fake smiles" is taken as well.

Thanks for stopping by and sharing your views.
July 11, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterV-Grrrl
With "service please" you must have hit a sour point in me V-Grrrl. But as you say, living in another country (even so close) makes you aware about things you otherwise take for granted but evenso can make you to see things back home from a different perspective. Nice blog though.
July 11, 2006 | Unregistered Commenternaat

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