Southern Living
Last time I was at the PX in Chieveres, I was excited to pick up an issue of Southern Living. For those of you outside the South, Southern Living is THE magazine for tradition-loving Southerners. It celebrates the South in every section—travel, books and music, entertainment, decorating, food, and gardening.
Starting a subscription to Southern Living is a rite of passage to adulthood, a sign that you’re ready to make a HOME, plant your own flowers, set a nice table, settle down and appreciate your life. It can be a little Martha with the garden parties and elaborate centerpieces and floral decorations, but I love it anyway. I can pretend to be more refined than I am.
Now those of you who have lived in the South know that its identity is all wrapped in its food. Southerners are unabashed foodies, but not in the gourmet, try something unexpected vein. Southerners are all about homestyle cooking, happy with the food they’ve made for generations. Let it be known that unlike everyone else, they are NOT interested in any commentary on the nutritional content of traditional Southern food. Remember, the South is known for sweet tea, killer desserts, pork products, and all things fried. It is a region that never met a dish that couldn’t be made better by smothering it in cheese or cream gravy or adding a bit more butter.
No surprise then that for most Southerners, friendliness and hospitality are directly proportional to one's girth. Southern Living’s recipes are all about taste and tradition and being with friends and family, not about the health of your heart. Y’all just have to get over it. Relax! Pull up a rocker. Y'all are way too tense about calories and whatnot. Have a glass of tea and a good laugh. Live a little!
The latest issue of Southern Living includes recipes for classics like macaroni and cheese (baked with crushed saltines in it), ham and bacon quiche, classic coca-cola glazed ham, deviled eggs, banana pudding, and browned butter pecan shortbread. (Don’t you dare sass Southern cooking until you’ve had my pimento cheese or Lynn’s collards. Yum, yum, yum.)
Times bein' what they are, Southern Living felt compelled to produce a Healthy Living issue. In its special section, it includes, ahem, a recipe for brown-sugared turkey bacon (55% of the calories from fat), bacon-wrapped beef fillets (seasoned with salt-free Greek spices!), and a light version of Chocolate Coffee Cheesecake with Mocha Sauce that has 464 calories per slice (46% from fat). The mocha sauce adds almost 100 calories per tablespoon, more than half the calories from fat.
Woo wee! Now you know why they normally don’t publish the nutritional information on their recipes. Why ruin a good thing? And as you can see, it’s clear the food editor was not supportive of the whole idea of a Healthy Living issue. I think the publisher broke her little heart with that one. Maybe she should have just skipped the mocha sauce...but what's life without bacon?
But hey, before you think Southerners have absolutely no culinary sophistication, let me just draw your attention to the recipe for Parmesan-Portabello Grits. Ain’t that something? Mushrooms and grits with Italian (pronounced eye-talian) cheese! The perfect accompaniment for a nice porkchop pan-fried in butter. Whadday'all think? A little cream gravy and bisuits on the side? I thought that sounded good too.
Copyright 2006 Veronica McCabe Deschambault. All rights reserved.
May 5, 2006